Thrilling, fun & frightening.
While out surfing this morning, a rather large sea lion nonchalantly swam in front of me. Glad he was in a good mood, because he could have easily thrown down.
I just built these two alaias recently. Inspired by Tom Wegenger. The first one I made was the 5′ out of an old oak and pine laminate desk top a friend had found. The 7′ alaia is made out of marine grade plywood. Both alaias finished with boiled linseed oil.
The 5′ alaia is too small for me to surf, but it’s really fast to ride prone with fins, and is possible to kneeboard too. I can’t wait to take the 7′ one out on a good day with nice peeling waves. It’s been mostly windswell lately, with nasty closeout beachbreaks. I took the 7′ alaia out in a lumpy beachbreak swell and stood up for a few fun short fast rides. I can’t wait to take it out in smoother clean peeling waves! Both boards are 3/4″ thick, with roughly 1/4″ rails. The 5′ is 17″ wide and weighs 8 pounds. The 7′ is 16 1/4″ wide. It probably weighs around 12 – 14 pounds. It weighs 17 pounds! We’re talking old school. Ancient Hawaiian Surfrider Old School.
Got some big waves today. Dove under & got pummeled by even bigger ones. One hell of a morning. It was a rather joyous occasion to get my feet back onto dry sand.
This morning I went logging on my noserider and got a legit Hang-Five on a small glassy left. Man, it was so cool, that’s a memory that will stick for as long as I live. Now I’ve got to Hang Ten, for sure.
Later today, while I was working, a guy on a skateboard got hit by a truck. He’s ok, I think. I didn’t see the incident. Nothing broken, but a lot of road rash. It’s scary, it could happen to anyone, especially me. I’m always skating in the street. I hope the guy is OK.
That’s why I try and go against traffic whenever possible. It’s one way to avoid a sneak attack from behind. A little something my pops taught me as a kid. So remember, as long as you think the cars won’t see you, the better off you are. Gotta be on the D-E-F-E-N-C-E.
I don’t know what riding a longboard and getting hit by a car on a skateboard have in common, I guess just board riding in general. It’s two sides to the same coin, beauty and the beast.
I’ve been having a blast on this handplane I recently made. You can keep your line high on the wave and really get a nice ride out of it.
I can get a lot longer ride, than just body surfing regular, it’s great. In critical moments, I’ve learned to pull the plane into the face of wave.
The dimensions on this board are 13″ x 9″ x 1″
It’s made of 1″ plywood I had laying around my house. Water proofed with Varethane, a urethane weather sealer for outdoor wood flooring.
Came across this really cool blog, about Design, Mexico, Photography, Surf, random articles and other cool blogs. Check it out when you get a second.
Sitting at the desk makes me want to hit the road.
Baja Sur – The Wall
Tenaya Lake – Yosimite
This morning I went body surfing. Nice, warm, small glassy waves. I caught one on the inside and happened to look into the water as I swam back out to sea. Something startlingly white caught my eye.
At first I thought it was a Great White. Without hesitation, I reached down to pet it, only to discover it was a wild albino straining ladle. It’s going to look mighty nice hanging on the wall next to my South African cutting board.